Casablanca reconnaissance

I did not want to spend the night in Casablanca. I missed my flight to Banjul by almost an hour so I knew I would have to wait for 24 hours, but there was no way I was going to turn this extended layover into a sightseeing trip. I just wasn’t in the mood. It was 2AM, after all.

But once I finally figured out how to get a new boarding pass and a hotel voucher, alongside a dozen other tired and confused travelers en route to Banjul, Dakar, Niamey and Dakhla (a surfer’s paradise, apparently), the choice was basically made for me. I wasn’t allowed to stay at the airport service hotel, which seems reserved for nationalities not allowed into the country. Instead, I was told to take a shuttle to the city center and stay at Hotel Campanile (sort of like an Ibis, take away one star).

Big city vibes

As romantic as the name Casablanca sounds, it’s Morocco’s biggest city and feels not even remotely like a tourist destination. It has tons of hotels but I can’t imagine why anyone would choose to stay there other than for business or a quick stopover to visit the rest of the country. Or maybe I’m just getting old and cranky.

Gone are the days when I was thrilled to visit yet another world capital, excited about the sheer number of restaurant choices, the shopping options, and the promise of a buzzing nightlife. Now, I just want a private tour guide to show me a few highlights and immediately move on to quieter parts of the country. Desert, mountains, or ocean—anything is better than a big city.

Arabian nights

At first the city felt a little nondescript, though I immediately thought Casablanca has a Mediterranean vibe. By the coast, balmy weather, fruits, vegetable and fish vendors everywhere, lots of men sitting in front of small cafes drinking coffee and tea. Lively and a little dirty.

But then I entered the Old Medina market and the Arabian Nights theme song came to mind. Mountains of spices and freshly baked bread sold next to glittering dresses and jewelry. It feels pretty authentic because besides the many stalls there are small houses where you can see glimpses of people’s living spaces through many open doors. Professions I’m barely familiar with are practiced there, and I saw a marabout. It’s going back in time and being yanked right back when a scooter sneaks up from behind.

Men men men

The thing about the Middle East, in my limited experience, is that there are so many men around compared to women. It’s a little unsettling. I knew I stood out and even worried I was being followed in the beginning. For a while I softly talked to myself to feel more relaxed. Still, I didn’t wander. I walked almost ten miles in just a few hours because I felt if I stopped I might get unwanted attention.

There was nothing threatening though. Actually, the few times men talked to me it was just “bonjour” or “salut” which sounds adorable no matter who you are. But there were also a lot of beggars and I didn’t have any dirhams on me so I just kept going without looking up. My handbag in front tucked under my jacket. It didn’t feel like an atmosphere of crime but the poverty in various neighborhoods was evident.

Cats and marathons

What else did I see… lots of cats! From what I can tell there are no street dogs in Casablanca and cats rule the place! They’re in front of stores and on top of the cheaper wares sold in market stalls. It’s cats and kittens galore.

A funny coincidence was that the Casablanca marathon was held that day. I asked a runner about his distance and while it took him a second to switch to English, he proudly announced he did 21K. I just finished a marathon in Amsterdam and was glad I didn’t choose this much hotter event, but it was nice to see all the satisfied medal-wearing runners stumbling back to their cars, or settle into my picture frame as I tried to capture the Hassan II mosque. A long run, preferably a race, is my favorite way to spend my Sunday mornings. It  definitely beats walking around aimlessly in an unfamiliar city that smells a little.

Recommend?

Bottomline is that I didn’t see much of Casablanca beyond a couple of landmarks. I didn’t properly tour the famous mosque or anything else. Still, I don’t think I’ll be returning here any time soon. My tolerance for this type of port city—Istanbul, Beirut, Athens and Marseille come to mind—is low. I don’t care for the souvenirs or even the architecture and definitely not for the pushy salesmen and the urine-soaked alleys.

I still want to take my family to Morocco though. I just have to look for other places. I have no doubt there is a lot of amazing stuff to see. When I google it I notice Casablanca doesn’t even really come up. Anyway, it’s pretty ridiculous to write about a place I literally saw for one day, but for my own purposes it was enough to know I’d rather go an area with more nature or heritage sites to admire.