Aryuvedic healing in Varkala
- Owner
- Apr 1
- 3 min read
Before coming to India I was only vaguely aware of Aryuvedic medicine. I’d heard about elements/doshas and had even figured out I’m a combination of air and fire, but I didn’t know that it’s an official branch of medicine in this part of the world, basically on par with modern medicine.
Not to start a debate on what’s real medicine though. I’ve always been of the “prevention is the best medicine" school and rather suffer through minor ailments than figure out what type of drugs might relieve my symptoms. I just don’t have patience for chemical, Aryuvedic, homeopathic (my mom’s go-to) or any other medicine.
In my adult life I’ve only really interacted with doctors during my pregnancy-related hospitalizations and when they presented me with the drugs menu I had no idea what to choose. Besides, my medical issues have always been more of the “we’ll have to put you under now” variety.
The person most interested in medicine in my family is my husband. He’s the one who buys all the health literature decorating our book shelves and, when I asked him recently where he wanted to go for his last trip in India, picked Varkala for a 10-day Aryuvedic cleanse. He spent the better part of his time there getting massages, eating little, and drinking black kashayan potions.
Varkala for Aryuvedic treatment
From my extremely limited research I gathered that Varkala cliff beach is quite popular with local and international tourists. There are various clinics right between the nightlife and souvenir shops. The hotel/clinic we stayed at looked pretty simple in the pictures but turned out to be clean, spacious and beautifully designed. It was my dream beach house--all wood, earthy tones, and smooth surfaces surrounded by lush greenery, lilly ponds, and flowers. Tourists who walked by the structure all stopped and stared.
Once I was there, even though it was just for the weekend, I felt I might as well go in for treatment. First, I had a consultation with Dr. Amrita. Her perfect skin and soft demeanor put me at ease immediately. She took my pulse and informed me of my dosha. So far so good. But then she started asking about a long list of ailment I didn’t suffer from—lack of sleep, indigestion, and so on. I told her I’d started to have allergies in Mumbai and she nodded, adding that this is typical for my dosha. Basically, she didn't give me any new information.
Still, the doctor recommended treatment. Any Aryuvedic cure seems to involve extensive massaging, so I underwent two hour-long sessions doused in oil. I've always disliked massages but I’d say I enjoyed about 60% of it—particularly the face massage and anything related to feet and legs. The horrific part was clearing my sinuses by dripping ghee in my nose and then, which was infinitely worse, channeling smoke through it. It kinda seemed to work though, so I can complain too much.
Varkala as a tourist destination
Varkala doesn't feel like a full-fledged international tourist destination. Maybe it just wasn't the season, but I primarily saw hordes of local tourists with only the occasional western hippie sprinkled in. Because Varkala is perched on a cliff there isn't much room and I felt a bit claustrophobic.
Still, Varkala has a lot to offer. It has wide beaches with dramatic cliff views—really beautiful. There’s surfing and paragliding. The night life is vibrant, the sea food is amazing and dirt cheap. Most importantly, you can do wellness treatments all day long at minimal cost, which is definitely the highlight.
After a few days I was both sorry and relieved to go. The place was growing on me, particularly Hotel Thanal, which we basically have to ourselves. The beach with its wild waves was alluring, though a little bit risky for my younger daughter. I just got tired of walking down the same strip looking for food three times a day. My tummy wasn't feeling right, which made it impossible to enjoy the food.
Final India adventure
I guess this was our final India trip! I feel so much at home here and yet there is still so much to explore. I'll always have a reason to come back to India, that's for sure.
Here are the other places I visited in the past three years:
Lonavola: the ultimate “green getaway” from Mumbai.
Nashik: India's premier wine destination.
Matheran: riding horses and hiking.
Agra: the inimitable Taj Mahal, and marble.
Rajasthan (Udaipur): Indian architecture and shopping
Goa: beaches and parties
Kerala: backwaters, tea plantations, beaches, Aryuveda
New Delhi: the capital, the food
Andaman Islands: snorkeling and diving
Bangalore: “Silicon Valley” of India and microbreweries
Kolkata: culture and (English) history